How To Get From Prague or the Prague Airport to Cesky Krumlov
Before your trip benefit from the experience of others by reading such sites as http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/tips/tips_menu.htm; Rick Steves writes that you'll never meet a traveler who brags after five trips, "Every year I pack heavier." The Czech Republic is a safe country, but it does have pickpockets; always be aware of your luggage in crowds associated with pickpockets (ie., on stairwells, entering/leaving metro cars and trams, around tourist areas, etc.), and keep valuables in a money belt under your clothes. Prices below were accurate when written but fluctuate with currency exchange rates ( see http://www.xe.com/ucc/ ); in tourist areas you can sometimes pay in dollars instead of Czech Crowns (CZK), but you will not receive a favorable exchange rate. For suggestions about shoes, electrical appliances, converting money, etc. see http://accommodation-cesky-krumlov.castleview.cz/before-your-trip.html .
SHORT VERSION
a) The fast and easy way - If you are with several people, you have heavy/valuable luggage, it is a holiday/weekend when buses/trains overflow with riders and vacant seats can be hard to find, the weather is bad, you have too much jet lag to deal with public transportation or cranky children, etc., consider the chauffeur and shuttle services mentioned in the "long version" below. Their drivers can meet you in the Arrival Hall of your flight just outside of customs and baggage clain. If you use a chauffeur service, two hours and 45 minutes after leaving the airport and at a cost of $150, your group will be at your lodging in Cesky Krumlov; a shuttle service costs $50 per person with the conditions noted in the long version below. (For travel between a hotel in the center of Prague and Cesky Krumlov on Sunday morning, the trip takes two hours and fifteen minutes. However at busy times like Sunday afternoon, Friday afternoon, etc. an additional thirty minutes or more is required). As the highway renovation south of Prague opens more segments, the travel time continues to shorten.
b) For the adventurous who have more time - Flights from New York, Atlanta, or London arrive at Prague's Terminal 1. If your flight to Prague departs from a Schengen country (almost all of Europe), you will arrive at Terminal 2. After going through passport control and baggage claim at Termnal 1, in the Arrival Hall you will see ATM machines to the left side of the left set of exit doors directly ahead and the "Student Agency" ticket booth to the right side of the right set of exit doors. Click http://360.panoramas.cz/letiste/vr.php?i=39 for a panoramic video of this area as one leaves baggage claim (zooming in at the far wall shows the metro/bus ticket machines, the "Student Agency" ticket booth between the right exit doors and the stairs, etc.; for full screen, click the blue rectangle "na celou obrazovku" at the lower right corner). Don't worry if you are not a student since anyone can ride this bus. If you have not already obtained a ticket at the "Student Agency" website (details below), they will sell you a ticket here for any available seat; their Prague to Cesky Krumlov adult fare is 160 CZK ($8) with discounts for students, children, etc. Get some coins with your change; you will need them to buy a 26 CZK ticket to ride the #100 bus to the ZLICIN metro station ("yellow" station at the far left of the map at http://www.urbanrail.net/eu/pra/praha.htm) and then continue on the metro. Usually it takes about one hour to get from the airport to the NA KNIZECI bus station above metro station ANDEL from which the "Student Agency" buses leave for Cesky Krumlov. Although a taxi to the bus station is faster, it costs over twenty times as much. (See article below to avoid being ripped off on taxi fares). Outside the Terminal 1 Arrival Hall go to the stop for bus #100 directly ahead on the other side of the plexiglass wall, and buy your ticket from the nearby machine. Validate the ticket when on the bus in one of the machines in the aisle (see below for instructions); keep the ticket with you until you exit your last metro stop in case an undercover policeman asks to see it. If the bus will leave before you have time to buy a ticket from the machine, the bus driver will sell you a ticket for a slightly higher price. If you have large luggage, you will need a specific luggage ticket for it. ZLICIN is the last stop for this bus; there get on the metro, and ride it to the ninth stop (metro station ANDEL). Click http://czech-transport.com/images/prague-airport-public-transport.gif for a map of the bus options from the airport to the metro or train station then click the map again to enlarge it; (although bus #179 goes to a metro stop closer to ANDEL station, it goes through developed neighborhoods so it is usually much faster to take the bus to the ZLICIN metro station. N. B. - The "Airport Express" bus now goes to the main train station HLAVNI NADRAZI instead of train station HOLESOVICE as shown on this map). At ANDEL turn to your left when you exit the metro car assuming you boarded it at ZLICIN, ride the escalator to the shopping area below the NA KNIZECI bus station (be sure to take the correct exit since the opposite ANDEL exit is far from the bus station), and walk up the stairs at the far left end of the underground shopping area to your bus, usually at stop #1. Since it makes limited stops, this bus trip requires two hours and fifty five minutes to reach Cesky Krumlov's main bus station (see map at http://accommodation-cesky-krumlov.castleview.cz/outstanding-central-location.html and additional details in the long version below concerning getting to the town's historic center). Congratulations; you have made the trip from Prague airport to Cesky Krumlov's historic center for less than $10 per person. (See instructions below concerning getting from Terminal 2 of the airport to the long distance bus stations. Currently there is no "Student Agency" ticket office in Terminal 2 although its ticket office in the Terminal 1 Arrival Hall is within easy walking distance [see http://www.prg.aero/en/site/sluzby_letiste/sluzby_cestujicim/mapy_letiste/celkovy_pohled_na_letiste/mapa_letiste_3D.htm ; clicking this map opens a new window; then clicking any camera icon in a light green rectangle opens a panoramic video taken at that specific location]).
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LONG VERSION
1. FLYING TO PRAGUE AIRPORT - Although the removal of passport control made travel between European Schengen Countries easier, overseas passengers going to Schengen countries such as the Czech Republic must now go through passport control at their transit airport if it is in a Schengen country. Therefore it is much easier to take a nonstop flight from Atlanta, New York, London, or some other non Schengen city and go through passport control at Prague airport. (London's Heathrow airport has had problems with delays, congestion, etc. and is known as the world's only construction site with its own airport). Paris' CDG (the busiest airport in continental Europe) is also a challenge for transit passengers with long distances between gates, absent/misleading signage, often indifferent customer service, congestion, glass ceilings that become solar heaters on summer days, and a baffling positioning/naming of terminals. Use CDG for transit only if you have at least several hours between flights. Until 2008, Munich and Dusseldorf airports had some of the shortest/easiest transit options in Europe, especially when conecting between code share flights; for years they were my favorite transit airports in Europe. However now they send non Schengen passengers on a long trek through passport control, the baggage claim area, etc. to a distant check-in counter to get a boarding pass for the next flight. Fortunately Dusseldorf recognizes this new hassle is costing them income by causing many frequent flyers to transit elsewhere; therefore the airport has been building faster transit corridors to/from some international flights. Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport, which historically has been one of Europe's favorite transit airports for frequent flyers, now has its own passport control barrier between the Schengen and non Schengen gates. Even though its passport control can be time consuming during rush hour and holidays, at least one is not required to go outside baggage claim to the check-in counter to receive the next boarding pass. Therefore Schiphol once again is my favorite large transit airport in Europe (Prague's airport is easier but has far fewer flights). There are many transit stations throughout this airport for boarding passes, and an "XpresSpa" is available (where you can have two treatments done simultaneously) if your transit experience becomes too stressful! For those with a long wait between flights, in addition to countless shops, restaurants, and wireless Internet, it also has a free art museum (a branch of the famous Rijksmuseum), medical clinic, casino, hotel, and even offers "Schiphol Weddings" with four different options depending upon your available time and budget. The airport at Ceske Budejovice (20 minutes from Cesky Krumlov) opens to commercial flights by 2012. With Prague having one of the simplest/shortest transits between non Schengen (Terminal 1) and Schengen (Terminal 2) flights in Europe (see map and video at http://www.prg.aero/en/site/sluzby_letiste/sluzby_cestujicim/prestup_na_letisti.htm), it will appeal to passengers continuing on flights to Ceske Budejovice.
2. INTRODUCTION TO CZECH BUSES AND TRAINS - Prague's main "Hlavni Nadrazi" train station is undergoing major renovation (see map at http://www.pragueexperience.com/maps/map.asp where the boundary between sections "2" and "3" meets the boundary between sections "c" and "d;" click the map to enlarge it then click specific sites for details). Until the renovation has been completed and the high speed train line is built from Prague to Linz, most people take the bus to Cesky Krumlov because the bus trip is shorter, cheaper, and often involves no transfers. The bus station is also much closer to the tourist area of Cesky Krumlov than its train station which is near the top of a steep hill (see Cesky Krumlov map). (May 2010 Update - Based on the amount of renovation remaining at Prague's main train station, December 2010 appears optimistic for its scheduled completion. Unless you have already bought your train ticket before your day of travel, allow extra time at the station. Currently both domestic and international ticket offices are below the main ground floor and are reached by steep moving sidewalks. One would assume these ticket offices will be returned to the ground floor before the renovation is completed; it would be much easier for passengers). Hopefully the Art Nouveau architecture will be retained and the Communist era "improvements" will be removed. When the station opened in 1871 and had its first renovation thirty years later, it was a showplace to welcome visitors and locals alike; its downlill course began with the Communists who built a massive highway on top of a block building in front of the train station's Art Nouveau architecture thus destroying much of the scenic park. Since the 1989 Velvet Revolution that overthrew Communism, this station can be rather seedy at night with its drug users, prostitutes, pickpockets, etc. The park in front of the station is even called "Sherwood Forest" by locals because of the high incidence of theft and the number of homeless people. The current renovation is scheduled to correct its tarnished image. Avoid the taxi drivers here who are known for their ripoff prices; the metro station, underneath the train station and also called HLAVNI NADRAZI, is on the "red" metro line betwen the "green" and "yellow" metro lines at http://www.urbanrail.net/eu/pra/praha.htm and easy to use.
On weekends and holidays the public buses/trains can be crowded, especially during summer. If you have an unreserved seat, please give your seat to the elderly/disabled if they ask. On public buses buying your ticket in advance, instead of from the bus driver, gets you a reserved seat. On weekends, holidays, etc., sometimes all of the seats will be taken, but you can ride standing in the aisle until a seat becomes available. However at peak travel periods there will not even be any standing room left so you will need to wait for the next bus. Such private companies like "Student Agency" do not have standing room and only have reserved seats; you will need to buy your ticket in advance unless you take the chance that the bus will have vacant seats left for the stewardess or driver to sell. At bus station FLORENC (metro station has same name) the public bus ticket office is in front of the bus platforms (see interactive link below); at bus station NA KNIZECI the public bus ticket office is underneath the bus station adjacent to the hallway leading to metro station ANDEL. When going to the NA KNIZECI bus station at metro B stop ANDEL, exit the metro station via direction "Zenske Domovy CSAD". "CSAD" is another term for the long distance bus lines. Thankfully, over the years they have improved the signage here. Nevertheless during rush hours, it can be easy to follow the crowds to the opposite metro exit which is far from the bus station. At ANDEL take the escalator up to the underground commercial area. Then walk straight ahead until you see the last stairs on your left going up to street level. Most of the buses to Cesky Krumlov leave from the bus stops closest to the top of this last exit to the left. In the left underground hall are small shops and the long distance bus ticket window which often is closed. At bus station ROZTYLY (metro station has same name) the public bus ticket counters are next to the building containing a tiny grocery store and the stairs leading down to the ROZTYLY metro station. Often on long distance public buses there is a small extra charge for luggage that goes into the storage area; this area is not secure so do NOT use expensive looking luggage, and sit on the same side of the bus as the storage area so that you can watch the luggage compartment being unloaded during any stops. On these long distance public buses many people use smaller pieces of luggage that can be carried on the bus; however storage space above/under the seats is limited. If the bus is not crowded, the driver will let you put your luggage in the aisle beside your seat or on the vacant seat next to you.
The local public buses are not air conditioned, and few long distance public buses have air conditioning ("Student Agency" buses are air conditioned). The public buses have no toilets ("Student Agency" buses have toilets). Metro station ANDEL has underground pay toilets on the right side just before the last stairs up to the bus station known as NA KNIZECI. Metro station ROZTYLY has toilets at ground level just to the right as you exit the Metro station. Bus station FLORENC has toilets on the opposite side of the bus station to the ticket office building (see interactive link below). Go to http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/vlakyautobusy/spojeni/ (has an English language option mid page on the right) for bus and train schedules; use your exact day of travel since schedules for public buses vary on holidays and weekends; most schedules list the price that varies according to the number of kilometers for that route. Unless you have a reserved seat, get to the bus stop early to have a good place in the line that forms waiting for the bus. Sitting in a seat in the back of the bus decreases the chance that someone has reserved your seat ahead of time forcing you to give up your seat at the last minute when only standing room remains. In the summer the back of the bus is also much cooler since there is a large ventilation opening in the roof (near the emergency exit at the back of the bus) on NON air conditioned buses. When going in a north/south direction during the summer, sit on the side of the bus opposite from the sun to avoid the dark fabric of your seat becoming a solar heater!
3. ADDITIONAL TRAIN TRAVEL TIPS - At http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/vlakyautobusy/spojeni/ print an itinerary of your trip for your exact date of travel (weekend/holiday schedules differ from workday schedules in many countries) showing the number for your departure platform, name of your transfer/arrival stations, arrival time, second class and discount fares, etc. Another reason for printing a detailed train schedule is that even small towns may have several train stations with similar names. If you are not careful, it is easy to get off at the wrong station when you are jet lagged and only know the approximate train station name and time the train is scheduled to arrive at your stop. Other train passengers will usually try to be helpful but may not understand your question; in many cultures people would rather tell you the wrong answer than admit they don´t know the answer or understand your question. A train passenger whose native language does not use definite and indefinite articles as English speakers do may not realize that you are not asking if the next station is "a" Salzburg train station (a seldom used station out in the boondocks) but instead are asking if the next station is "the" main Salzburg train station (where almost 100% of tourists want to arrive). Unlike Western Europe where almost every train station has a zillion signs with the station name, in Central Europe and Eastern Europe many towns have only one faded sign on the main train station building. If you are sitting in the back of the train or looking through the opposite or a fogged window, the train will have left the station before you know the station´s name. Therefore sit close to the front of the train so you can more easily see the station´s name in time to gather your luggage and go to your closest exit. At small stations the train will only stop for a minute or so; be prepared to open the train door to exit as soon as the train stops. On newer trains you press the green button by the door to open it automatically; on older trains, you will need to lower manually the large lever on the door to open the door. On crowded summer weekend and holiday trains when finding ANY unreserved seat in second class is difficult, first class train travel in the Czech Republic is a good option since the prices are so low compared to Western Europe. Sitting in first class, you can easily pay the train conductor the first class supplement when he comes to check your ticket; hand 100 CZK to him with your second class ticket so he will not think you are trying to cheat with the wrong ticket. If your Czech train stops at an intermediate station and everyone seems to be getting off the train, the track ahead may be undergoing repair. All passengers are expected to board the special bus near the train station and ride it to the next train station beyond the repair work. There another train will be waiting for you to continue your journey. Although a loud speaker or conductor will tell you to leave the train to board the waiting bus, the announcement will almost always be only in the Czech language.
Be cautious about close train connections in Central and Eastern Europe. Whereas five minutes between trains would be plenty of time in such countries as Holland (where close connections are on the same platform and trains wait for each other), in the Czech Republic neither is usually the case. Also with the railroad infrastructure renovation between Prague and Linz, delays can be expected. If you understand a little Czech and/or the train conductor knows some English, he can at least tell you what track your next train will be leaving from and which end of the train that you are now riding will be closer to your connecting train at your transfer station. About ten or fifteen minutes before your scheduled stop, take your belongings and go to the proper end of the train. If you wait too long, other passengers will block your passage as they fill both ends of each train car waiting to exit the train when it stops. If your train does not arrive in Ceske Budejovice during rush hour (when the buses run more frequently) and you have missed your train connection, consider taking the short taxi ride from Ceske Budejovice to Cesky Krumlov rather than wait several hours for the next train/bus to Cesky Krumlov.
4. GOING FROM PRAGUE AIRPORT TO CESKY KRUMLOV BY BUS - In 2006 Prague airport opened Terminal 2 for most flights within Europe. Although the instructions in the next paragraph now refer to Terminal 1, the general concepts also apply to Terminal 2. Specifically, the bus stops for Terminal 2 are under the front roof of the terminal building. Keep walking to the far right as you exit the building until you see the last signs for buses 100, 119, etc. where the buses pick up passengers. When you return to the airport for your flight home, know from which terminal your flight will leave. Some of Prague´s previous general aviation terminals, such as Terminal 3, are now used only for government or private aviation flights (see map at http://www.prg.aero/en/site/sluzby_letiste/sluzby_cestujicim/mapy_letiste/celkovy_pohled_na_letiste.htm ). When on a crowded bus, it is easy to get off at the wrong Terminal if you are not careful; as of this writing Terminal 2 is the last stop for the public buses from the Prague metro stations.
If your flight arrives at Terminal 1, as you exit baggage claim use the ATM machines on the left side of the left set of exit doors as you exit the building. You will need a four number pin for your VISA or MC to use these machines. Don´t use the money changing booths since their "real" exchange rates and extra fees are higher than those at ATMs and banks. You can buy Prague bus/metro tickets at the Public Transport Information Desk (to the right of the right side exit doors) or ticket machines (just to the right of the left side exit doors) as you exit the arrival hall, at the bus stop outside, or even from the bus driver (at a higher price) if you have low value banknotes. Cab drivers waiting outside the arrivals hall are notorious for ripping off tourists; therefore walk past them as you exit the terminal building, cross the street, and beyond the clear wall of plexiglass you will see the public bus stops on your right side. The adult fare is 26 KC if the ticket is bought from the ticket machines inside the terminal or by the bus stops (30 KC if the ticket is bought from the bus driver). There is an extra charge for large pieces of luggage. Properly validate your ticket in the machine on the bus as soon as you enter, and save your ticket until you completely exit the last stop for your journey. You can use the same ticket to continue your journey on the metro to the center of town or to one of the long distance bus or train stations as long as your trip is within the time limit for the ticket and in the same general direction. The 26 CZK ticket can be used for a single journey composed of bus, metro, and tram lasting up to 75 minutes from validation (90 minutes on weekends and state holidays). I emphasize proper validation since undercover police will charge you a large fine if your ticket has not been inserted into the machine so the time you started your journey is printed at the tip of the arrow on the front of the ticket. There is also a Cedaz minibus shuttle for 90 CZK from Prague airport to the Dejvicka metro station and some other stops in Prague; however with this option you also need to buy a 26 CZK ticket to ride the metro from Dejvicka station to the metro station associated with your bus/train to Cesky Krumlov.
Bus #100 goes from the airport to metro station ZLICIN (Prague Metro map at http://www.urbanrail.net/eu/pra/praha.htm) which is the "yellow" line B station at the western edge of the metro network; click http://czech-transport.com/images/prague-airport-public-transport.gif for a map showing bus options from the airport to the metro and train station then click the map to enlarge it. (N. B. - With recent route changes this map now has a significant error; the "Airport Express" bus now goes to the main train station HLAVNI NADRAZI instead of the train station HOLESOVICE). Prague has a half dozen long distance bus stations, but the ones for Cesky Krumlov are primarily FLORENC, NA KNIZECI, and ROZTYLY. If you print the above Prague Metro map in color, this paragraph will be easier to understand. The long distance bus stations FLORENC (metro station same name) and NA KNIZECI (above metro station ANDEL) are on the metro line B. On the metro map, FLORENC is where line C (shown in Red) crosses line B (shown in Yellow); metro station ANDEL is five stations to the south west of metro station FLORENC on the line B (shown in Yellow). In planning your trip allow at least one hour to travel from the Prague airport to the NA KNIZECI bus station during non rush hours; at the airport take bus #100 to the metro station ZLICIN then take the metro to station ANDEL. When going to the NA KNIZECI bus station, exit the metro station via direction Zenske Domovy CSAD. "CSAD" is another term for the bus line. (If you have boarded the metro at ZLICIN, as you exit the subway car at the ANDEL station, turn to your left and take the stairs/escalator up to the underground commercial area. Then walk straight ahead until you see the last stairs up to street level. The buses to Cesky Krumlov usually leave from the bus stops at the top of this last exit to the left but sometimes at the top of the exit on the left just before the last one). The third Prague long distance bus station for Cesky Krumlov is ROZTYLY (the metro stop three stations from the southern end of line C has the same name). To reach this bus station, transfer from line B to line C at metro station FLORENC and travel south. (Line C also goes to the main train station "H. nadrazi" whose metro stop has the same name).
The renovated main bus station in Ceske Budejovice (on the route between Prague and Cesky Krumlov) is now open. Although on the same block as the former main bus station and across the street from the main train station, it is now located on the roof of a new shopping mall shown at http://dopravne-obchodni-centrum.mercurycentrum.cz/autobusove-nadrazi-obchodni-centrum.php?mapa-centra/ with the arrangement of bus stops shown at http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/info/C2/S4842.HTM . When you enter the mall, take the escalator or elevator to the top floor. When you reach the top floor, turn right and go outside to the roof level. Look to your right, and you will see bus stop #1 where most buses to Cesky Krumlov depart. (Bus stop #1 is located at the northeast corner of the roof from which you can see the top of the main train station across the street). Even though transfers are much easier than when the temporary bus station had a several block walk between many buses, it can still be easy to miss a close connection. Novices to the area are urged to use bus schedules between Prague and Cesky Krumlov that don't require transfers. You will seldom make a close long distance public bus connection from a town as far away from Ceske Budejovice as Prague since long distance public buses are often late; private buses such as Student Agency have a much better on time record. During rush hours, bus stops often have more people waiting to ride the bus than can sit on the bus or fit into the standing room space.
5. GOING FROM THE BUS STATION IN CESKY KRUMLOV TO ITS HISTORIC CENTER - The buses from Prague let off passengers at the entrance to the main Cesky Krumlov bus station which is an open field with buses parked along one side and numbered stations on the other side from which the buses depart. As you leave the bus you arrived on in Cesky Krumlov, walk in the same westerly direction that the bus entered the bus station (you will see the Castle Tower in the distance above the trees straight ahead). As you reach the trees at the western end of the bus station parking lot, near the corner to your left (the SW corner of the property) you will see a paved foot path that goes up a small hill. (Near the top of this hill is a park bench with a photo-op of the town's historic center below). Keep walking on the foot path until you reach the first street then bear to your right walking downhill on the sidewalk to the main highway. There is a stoplight here with a button to halt traffic. Cross at the zebra (there is a grocery store to your left), and walk straight ahead towards the bridge to the old town (you will be on Horni Street). Just before you cross this bridge there are some photo-ops on the right side behind the corner building. Between the bridge and Main Square there is a small park to your right for good pictures of the river below and the Castle across the river. After you pass the park and before you reach the Main Square, look to your right along the first narrow passageway that is primarily for pedestrians; you will see a photo-op used in many postcards with the Castle Tower in the distance between many buildings (Castle View Apartments at the corner of Satlavska Street is on the left side of this passageway and has ivy on its front). In winter when there is ice/snow on the ground, an easier approach to Castle View Apartments is to walk to the Main Square, turn right, then turn right again at the Infocentrum to walk on Satlavska Street which is primarily a pedestrian passageway. Although the walk from the main bus station to Castle View Apartments only takes about fifteen or so minutes, depending upon how many photos you take along the way, consider taking a taxi if you have heavy luggage, the weather is rainy, etc. There is often a taxi waiting near the entrance to the main bus station, or the clerk inside the small store by the entrance can call one for you. If you don't want to use a taxi and want to avoid walking up the small hill at the west of the main bus station, another option is to walk to the north of the bus station then through the gas station (see Cesky Krumlov map above) to the main highway that goes south to the stoplight and "zebra" mentioned above.
6. GOING FROM PRAGUE AIRPORT TO CESKY KRUMLOV BY TRAIN - The train station in Cesky Krumlov is much farther from the historic center than its bus station and up a steep hill. Nevertheless if you are taking the train to Cesky Krumlov after arriving at the Prague Airport, a faster and no transfers option is to take Bus AE (Airport Express) from the Prague Airport to the main train station "Hlavni nadrazi". See more details in section #2 above. Assuming one is not stuck in rush hour traffic, travel time for the bus is about 50 minutes; the bus leaves the airport every thirty minutes between 5:46 am and 9:16 pm. Use one of the airport ATMs (see details above) to get Czech currency since their exchange rates are better than those at the currency change booths. The price for an adult is 50 CZK with no charge for oversized luggage; tickets are sold by the driver at the bus stops for Terminal 1 and Terminal 2. As soon as you arrive at the main train station, stop at one of the many food stalls to get a liter of water and food to consume on the train in case food is not available on your train (with the usualy required transfer in Ceske Budejovice, the train trip to Cesky Krumlov requires between four and five hours); the water from the faucet above the sink in the train toilets is NEITHER safe to drink NOR to use to brush one's teeth. Over the years some of the food stalls at "Hlavi nadrazi", especially those closest to the train tracks, have been infamous for high prices and low quality; thankfully the current renovation is including larger and better stores similar to those in other major European train stations. If you have extra time before your train departs to buy snacks for your journey, visit a nearby supermarket as mentioned in the next paragraph for better prices and healthier alternatives. (In downtown Prague essentially all of the larger supermarkets are underground and easy to miss if you are not aware of their street level logo or location in the basement of several large department stores and near some metro stations).
7. A PICNIC LUNCH DURING YOUR TRIP - For people who want a serene picnic lunch between their long flight and the bus/train trip to Cesky Krumlov, bus #119 goes from the Prague airport to metro station DEJVICKA (at the beginning of line A although work is underway extending the metro closer to the airport) whose trains go to stations in the historic center of Prague and beyond. One could of course reach the above mentioned metro B/C lines from this metro A line, but the large transfer station MUSTEK is complicated for novices unless you stay on metro line A and use the southern metro exit in the direction towards MUZEUM and Wenceslas Square. (Although Prague is a safe city as large cities go, it does have pickpockets both solo and working together in groups. Be especially vigilant around crowds on stairs in metro stations and crowds at opening/closing doors to metro trains/trams/buses in tourist areas. Remember that you are probably jet lagged after a long flight so remind yourself to watch your belongings and wear a money belt under your clothes). At metro station DEJVICKA board the train then exit it at station MUSTEK; walk in the same direction that the metro train is going and ride the escalator up to the underground commercial area. You will notice that this formerly large open hall has been replaced by enclosed shops in a strange pattern. As you enter the commercial space, if you go around the enclosed shops to the far left, you will reach a large underground supermarket. (Just to the right of the supermarket is an escalator/steps and pay toilets. This escalator/steps goes up to Wenceslas Square in the direction of MUZEUM). After you have bought your picnic lunch (be sure to buy an extra liter of water/juice plus food to carry with you on the bus/train to Cesky Krumlov), return to the entrance to the metro escalators just to get your bearings. Then make a hard right turn, and climb the first stairs to your right. At the top of the stairs hug the left side of the building as you walk along the sidewalk for about 33 paces (about 100 feet) until you see an interior arcade to your left. Walk straight through the arcade until you reach the entrance to a beautiful park with rose bushes, park benches, statues, etc. bordered by apartment buildings and a church to the north. Can you believe this quiet park is in downtown Prague between busy, noisy streets! Many Prague office workers eat their lunches here while sitting on the benches and admiring the beauty around them. On the historic center map link at the top of the page this park is shown in the upper left corner of quadrant "C3" just below the word "MUSTEK" and adjacent to the church marked "Our Lady of the Snows." There are entrances on the west of the park going to Jungmannova Street where a good place to find a large assortment of maps and travel books is the KIWI store at #23 on the other side of the street. Just to the north of KIWI back across the street is an Internet cafe, etc. A short walk north on Jungmannova Street is one of the northern entrances to the MUSTEK metro station. You will need to buy another 18 CZK or 26 CZK ticket, depending on the number of metro stops, to ride the metro to the bus station or train station for the trip to Cesky Krumlov, unless you walk to the nearby Hlavni Nadrazi train station to board a train there. Metro/tram tickets are sold near the top of metro entrance escalators in coin machines and sometimes at ticket windows near the machines. (Some post offices, sidewalk kiosks, and hotels also sell the metro/tram/bus tickets but may not have all types of tickets). Even after visiting Prague for more than a decade, I still make wrong turns inside this large MUSTEK station when changing between the metro lines, especially when some of the direction signs are missing.
8. "STUDENT AGENCY" BUSES - Whereas in years past one had to put the EXACT date of travel into the www.idos.cz website since the public buses changed their schedules so frequently, "Student Agency" now has a fixed, fast (2 hours and 55 minutes), four trips a day schedule leaving at 7:00 am, 11:00 am, 3:00 pm, and 7:00 pm between Prague's NA KNIZECI bus station and the Cesky Krumlov main bus station. One does NOT need to be a student to use this private service. (DECEMBER 2009 UPDATE - According to the latest revision of the "Student Agency" website, on January 4, 2010 they will increase the number of buses on this route to eight per day! Advance reservations are still needed to ensure there will be space for you on the buses. Follow the links at http://www.studentagency.cz/express/vnitro/?&en for details and to make reservations for your travel. Note that as of yet one can reserve a seat no more than several weeks in advance; hopefully with the increased number of buses on this route, it will be easier to get a reservation for holiday weekends, etc. The website lists the movies shown on each bus as well as the vacant seats, etc. They have finally translated most of their pages into English so there is no longer the problem of our Czech/English translations being out of date almost as soon as they were written. As of this writing their website still has no option for buying a roundtrip ticket or several tickets at once). These air conditioned buses have toilets, movies with English subtitles with free use of head sets, a stewardess to serve free hot beverages (there is a charge for cold drinks), free (Czech language) newspapers/magazines, and "ports" for computers/CDs. Currently they charge adults 160 CZK for a one way trip with student discounts if under 26 and additional discounts for children. The "Student Agency" bus schedule can also be found at http://www.idos.cz/ by noting which buses take 2 hours and 55 minutes between the NA KNIZECI bus station in Prague and Cesky Krumlov then clicking the link by the bus symbol; the link will confirm if it is a "Student Agency" bus. Be aware that some other private bus companies that do NOT have toilets on board and other similar perks are now also advertising a 2 hour and 55 minute schedule between the two cities.
After making several trips on the "Student Agency" buses, I am happy to report that their buses often arrive at their long distance destinations early! In Prague the bus leaves from bus stop #1 at the NA KNIZECI bus station (above the ANDEL metro stop), and in Cesky Krumkov the bus leaves the main bus station from bus stop #4. When in Prague, reservations can be obtained at the "Student Agency" booth (open from 7:00 am until 9:00 pm) outside of baggage claim in the Terminal 1 arrivals hall in the Prague airport; as of this writing, Terminal 2 (where most flights from inside Europe arrive/depart) does NOT have a "Student Agency" booth. Once I asked the bus stewardess where one could buy an advanced reservation. She directed me to the bus ticket window below the NA KNIZECI station; however when I went there, it was closed. About an hour later there was a waiting line of people twenty feet long! When in Cesky Krumlov the Information Center at the Main Square will sell you a reserved seat. The bus driver or stewardess will sell you a ticket if there are any vacant seats on that bus; for travel during holidays, summer weekends, etc. it is most important to buy your ticket several days to a week in advance since many locals use the bus for the intermediate stops.
Since the toilet on this bus is next to the exit stairs below the seat level, persons over six feet tall, former weight lifters, and current couch potatoes will find the toilet cramped (pun?). Since the center of gravity of the bus is so high compared to public buses, persons with a tendency to motion sickness should take an over the counter medicine for it before using the bus if they plan to use the toilet. They should also sit as close to the front of the bus as possible to decrease the number of movie screens within the field of vision. On my first trip on the bus I sat in the front and watched the movie but did not try the toilet; I had no motion sickness. On my second trip I sat in the middle of the bus; after using the toilet on a winding road and bumping my head/shoulders during several sharp turns, I developed motion sickness when I returned to my seat. I am sure all of the movie screens on the bus showing English subtitles and the warm temperature inside the bus (it was below freezing outside) did not help. Fortunately the five seats at the back of the bus were empty, and I was able to lie down for thirty minutes until the next station stop. When the bus again became full, I had to return to my original seat. Persons with physical disabilities may have difficulty entering/leaving the bus since the steps are so steep and the passenger level is so high off the ground; they can forget about using the toilet since even an Olympic gymnast could have difficulty getting to and from the narrow, steep stairway and the adjacent small toilet while traveling on a winding road at high speed. Be advised that the storage space above the seats is small, even smaller than the small storage space on the long distance public buses. Therefore any luggage of significant size will need to go into the bus storage area. If you plan to use the seat back tray during your trip or are bringing children, bring a few disposable wipettes; some of the stewardesses are not so fastidious as others in cleaning food/drink debris stuck to the tray tops.
On web travel forums, some "Student Agency" drivers have been called rude, making many unscheduled stops, etc. providing a negative travel experience compared to other bus companies. In this country, until 1989 dominated by Communist attitudes and tanks, one unfortunately still finds workers who consider customers to be a bothersome interruption to their day and not the reason they even have a job! From my personal experience on dozens of long distance public buses I have noticed a wide range in the behavior of drivers. Some will help you with your luggage, answer your questions, and go out of their way to help you make a close connection by blocking the path of your next bus so you can board it before it leaves (other riders might interpret this behavior as making an unscheduled stop). Other public bus drivers won't help with luggage, won't answer questions, and will not let you ride standing room (even though there is plenty of space for you between other standing passengers) when the next bus does not leave for many hours. (The latter happened to friends of mine; to add insult to injury, the later public bus developed severe mechanical problems enroute delaying their trip again for several hours as another bus had to be sent from Prague to transport the passengers. The moral of this story is to get to your bus stop early if you don't have a reserved seat). "Student Agency" buses being newer have fewer breakdowns on the road than public buses although most Czech bus drivers are very talented at making minor repairs on their own. (November 2009 update - Recently some web forums have reported that the low "Student Agency" fares are attracting drunks behaving in an obnoxious fashion towards other passengers on the long distance routes such as Budapest to Prague, etc. As of yet I have neither heard of nor experienced such behavior on the shorter routes such as between Prague and Cesky Krumlov.) Nevertheless, the "Student Agency" buses are overall a TREMENDOUS improvement over the standard long distance public buses. Previously, even the direct (no transfers) public buses between Prague and Cesky Krumlov that were scheduled to take from three to three and a half hours took up to four hours in busy traffic! Since on weekends and holidays one needed to stand in line at the bus stop almost thirty minutes ahead of time to be sure to get a seat on the bus, it was not uncommon to have between four and five hours without a bathroom break! Thankfully the days of "grin and bear it" while suffering with a full bladder on a long distance bus have been replaced with "grin and bare it." Also note that some of the movies shown on the bus are "R" rated, something to be aware of if you are bringing children.
9. CHAFFEUR SERVICES - For the two hour and forty five minute trip between Prague airport and Cesky Krumlov, Mike's Chauffeur Service ( www.mike-chauffeur.cz/ ) offers a twice a day service leaving at noon and 6:00 pm. For one or two passengers including a child under 15 years, the cost is 3,000 CZK at this writing. For three or four passengers, the cost is 3,500 CZK; for five to seven passengers, the cost is 3,800 CZK. He can be reached at mike.chauffeur@cmail.cz. When there are several people in your group who can lower the cost per person, chauffeur companies provide a good air conditioned alternative with flexibility concerning other options such as a stopover at the stunning Hluboka Castle between Cesky Krumlov and Prague.
From time to time his website lists scheduled long distance trips such as from Prague to Vienna, etc.; by using the segment between Prague and Cesky Krumlov, you could have door to door service at significant savings. Every Wednesday and Sunday in May, June, July, August, and September they also offer a minibus between Prague and Salzburg (via Cesky Krumlov) for 1,500 CZK per person provided there are at least 5 passengers; the price between Prague and Cesky Krumlov of course would be proportionally less. Email him at info@mike-chauffeur.cz or mike.chauffeur@cmail.cz to learn if others have booked this trip on your travel date so you can decrease this price based on the particular segment you wish to travel. If you have never seen Salzburg and the mountain lake towns (ie., Hallstatt, Traunkirchen, etc.), your trip to this region would be a perfect time to see their spectacular scenery.
10. SHUTTLE VANS - Recently such Cesky Krumlov companies as "Lobobus" (phone +420 380 713 153) at website http://www.shuttlelobo.cz/shuttle/index.php?artid=10&lang=en, "Sebastian Tours" (phone +420 608 357 581) at website www.sebastianck-tours.com , and "Travel Agency Expedicion" at website http://www.expedicion.cz/ have started "on demand" service between Cesky Krumlov and such cities as Prague, Salzburg, and Vienna. Since the prices change so often and vary from company to company, it is best to contact all three for a quote. Last year the price varied between 900 CZK and 1,100 CZK per person at the first two companies; for more perks during your journey, "Travel Agency Expedicion" includes them in a much higher price for the trip. (Their above website has details). Several days before your departure, reconfirm that the trip will take place; shuttle companies often cancel their long distance trips if not enough passengers sign up to cover their costs and the scheduled passengers are not willing to pay a surcharge. On the other hand the companies' websites and the Infocentrum in the Main Square in Cesky Krumlov sometimes have last minute specials" at considerably lower prices.
11. TAXI OPTIONS - Although taking a taxi between Prague and Cesky Krumlov is MUCH more expensive, it is another option. Taxi drivers in Prague (especially at the airport, main train station, and other "tourist" areas) are infamous for ripping off tourists even for short trips into and in town; always agree on a price in writing before getting into a cab or let your hotel call the taxi for you since they know the honest companies. Be especially wary of people approaching you offering their "taxi". Use one of the more reputable companies such as AAA "Radio" Taxi (phone 14014 or 222 333 222). UPDATE - To use this company, be sure your taxi has a yellow color and has the proper logo on its doors; another taxi company that charges much higher rates now also calls itself "AAA Taxi" but uses red or silver colored cars with a different logo). In the past one had to find a pay phone at the airport, understand how to use the phone, have the correct change or prepaid phone card, call them hoping you understood each other, and meet them at a special location outside the airport terminal building even in the rain. Now that Terminal 2 has opened, the genuine AAA "Radio" Taxi has a booth INSIDE Terminal 2 just to the right as you exit baggage claim; their cabs are just outside the terminal door underneath the large roof extension. In Terminal 1 AAA "Radio" Taxi has an information booth on the opposite wall as you exit the baggage claim and customs area. However always agree on a price in writing before you get into the cab and load your luggage. At this writing they charge about 5,000 CZK (OUCH!) on the meter to go from the Prague airport to Cesky Krumlov (compared to the public transportation cost of 26 CZK per person to go from the airport to the ANDEL metro station then about 160 to 180 CZK, depending on the exact bus route and your luggage, to take the bus to Cesky Krumlov). As of this writing, such companies as Krumlov Taxi (phone 380 712 712) have a cheaper flat rate of 3,890 CZK between the Prague airport and Cesky Krumlov.
12. RENTAL CARS - Historically it was cheaper to reserve a rental car in one´s home country before arriving in Europe; now there are special deals locally from time to time. Check both options in advance for your dates of travel. In most countries it helps to have an "International Driving Permit" available at such places as AAA Motor Clubs to translate your license into an "International" one. Automatic transmission is rare on cars in Europe; if this feature is important to you, make sure the car rental agency agrees to your wishes. Some rental agencies in Germany and Austria prohibit your taking their cars into countries such as the Czech Republic where the danger of theft and risk of an accident are high; in any case, don´t leave valuables visible in your car even when it is locked. Know in advance the drop off fees to leave the car in a different location. Special "country and date specific" decals are needed on the car to use certain superhighways without running the risk of an instant fine from police. Also note what special equipment (first aid kit, warning triangle, etc.) is required in your car for the specific countries you will visit. Before your trip review such websites as "http://www.ideamerge.com/motoeuropa/car_travel_europe.html#czech_republic" that have a wealth of information about driving rules for SPECIFIC countries, European road signs, etc. Pay particular attention to the rules of the road that may be different from your home country; in an accident, police usually assume the foreign driver is at fault since the local customs would not be familiar to him/her. Before your trip also read the article on the left side of the Castle View Apartments Home Page titled "Renting a Car."
To those who are thinking about driving in Prague, I have five words of advice - DO NOT EVEN CONSIDER IT. Downtown Prague is a medieval city with narrow, meandering streets built to confuse invading armies. Today the invading hordes are not armed with swords and knives but cameras and SUVs. It is usually faster to walk in the downtown areas than to ride, and parking places can be tough/expensive to find near the popular sites. Also, the police are infamous for slapping instant $100+ fines on unsuspecting tourist drivers for trivial offenses; often I have seen them stake out busy intersections (with a zillion seemingly contradictory directional signs) ready to write tickets and collect their big fines. Although customer service is gradually improving in the Czech Republic, do not try to push the envelope with the traffic police in this former Communist dominated country; ie., a stop sign means a full stop, not a rolling stop. It is best to park your car at your lodging in the Prague suburbs (where there is less danger of your car being vandalized) and to take the metro into town each day for sightseeing.
Concerning the drive from Prague to Cesky Krumlov, the route via E49 is faster than E55 (the longer route taxis take when they are on the meter) unless you are leaving from the eastern part of Prague. There is a lot of road construction between the two cities, and at times the traffic is heavy. For those planning to drive directly from the Prague airport to Cesky Krumlov, consider getting a good map in advance of the highways around Prague and asking local drivers to mark the route for you; it is faster to drive west towards Plzen for a few miles before turning south to Cesky Krumlov since it avoids very long lines of trucks at highway exits along the southern rim of Prague. However many local roads are narrow and have large trees with deep ditches close to the pavement. (Fortunately it is the custom to move to the right edge of the road when another vehicle is trying to pass; unfortunately a lot of drivers pass in no passing zones). Prior to air conditioning, such trees kept the roads cooler in the hot summer sun; now they can be a traffic hazard especially at night or in fog. There is a zero tolerance for ANY alcohol in one´s sytem while driving here. Note that Czech drivers are not known for their driving skills. I have seen driver education cars pull out in front of me in the left hand lane then slow down! Every time I make the journey I see at least one accident site. Note the "Arriving by Car" link on the left side of the home page of this website for directions when in Cesky Krumlov.
13. GOING FROM DOWNTOWN PRAGUE TO CESKY KRUMLOV BY BUS OR TRAIN - During the summer season there is only one morning direct train from the main Prague train station (Hlavni nadrazi) to Cesky Krumlov (train and bus schedules at http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/vlakyautobusy/spojeni/ with an English option). Even though the Cesky Krumlov train station is far up a steep hill from the historic center and the train costs more than the bus, having no transfers, more room to spread out than on a bus, toilets on board, etc. would make this direct train my first choice at this time of day. Later in the day my first choice would be a bus with no transfers such as "Student Agency". If I wanted more adventure, my second choice would be to take the train from Prague to Ceske Budejovice; then I would take the bus from Ceske Budejovice´s bus station (on the top floor of the new shopping mall across the street and a half block south of the train station) to Cesky Krumlov. This technique works best during rush hour when the buses between Ceske Budejovice and Cesky Krumlov run frequently; in this case it is easy to wait for the next bus if you miss the first connection or the earlier bus is too crowded.
See above section for instructions to Prague´s long distance bus stations after you have chosen your departure time and bus station. If your bus leaves from the FLORENC station, consider a dry run the day before your trip to find the metro exit closest to the bus station (this is a transfer metro station and can be confusing at rush hour), to locate your bus departure platform, and to buy a reserved seat for your trip. At web site http://www.florenc.cz/index.php?page=map.florenc-uan&lang=cz there is an interactive map that shows the bus platforms, the location of toilets, the ticket offices, etc. They have recently added public computers, and the building to the south now has free WiFi, a "Student Agency" ticket office, etc. When you click the icons with the blue background at the south of the bus station for an enlarged view of this building, note that for some unknown reason the enlarged view has reversed the positioning of the floorplan/surroundings. Be aware that the closest metro station entrance is actually at the southwest of the bus station; if you have viewed the interactive historic center map link at the top of the page, note that the closest FLORENC metro exit is the exit towards the south. The morning bus to Cesky Krumlov usually leaves from platform 25, but it is always best to confirm at the ticket office for the day of your trip.
14. RETURNING TO PRAGUE - On the return trip from Cesky Krumlov to Prague, many prefer the shorter bus ride from Cesky Krumlov to Ceske Budejovice since the bus station in Cesky Krumlov is closer to the historic center than the train station. Then in Ceske Budejovice taking the train to Prague gives you more room to stretch out than on a bus, has toilets on board, and arrives at the main Prague train station. You will then be just a short walk from the famous Wenceslas Square (which is actually shaped like a long narrow rectangle instead of a square) where many hotels are located. As mentioned above, the taxi drivers at this train station are infamous for ripping off tourists with their high prices; however the walk to Wenceslas Square is short, downhill, and very easy if your luggage has wheels. Hopefully when the renovation of this train station is finished, the taxi situation will be improved as well. Taking a bus from Cesky Krumlov to Prague deposits you at one of Prague's four long distance bus stations, some of which don´t have clear directional signs to the closest Metro station.